In his book
“Food Rules”, Michael Pollan sets out a number of rules to help one negotiate
the myriad choices, good and bad, in the eating arena. He begins by saying “Eat
Food”, which sounds obvious until he outlines the pretend food, junk food,
additives etc. that masquerade as real food.
So what is
real food? It runs a whole gamut, from the wild, the unwashed, and the uncooked
- berries picked from the vine on a walk
- to the sophisticated creations of the cook’s kitchen. What one realizes when
one starts thinking about real food is that it is often associated with
memories that flavor it with nostalgia. Let’s take other wild foods, for
instance. There are dandelion greens that I remember my mother gathering and
cooking, the woodruff she put in white wine and that I have put in a Bowle, mushrooms that one gathers with a
group in the woods, the plentiful wild garlic perfuming the woods here in
Switzerland.
Then there
are the old-fashioned sounding purslane, dock and sorrel, as well as linden,
hickory nuts, watercress and wild game of all sorts. I remember homemade
elderberry wine in Sweden, and wild strawberries remind me of jars of jam on a
windowsill, with the light dazzling through the wonderful red color. Then there
is the handsome wintergreen shrub and myriad fish, from crayfish on up to
salmon.
Our
ancestors ate all of the above, and at some point someone got the idea of
domesticating some of these wild plants in a kitchen garden. Certainly easier
to gather, so that one has time to do a bit of home processing, making the
likes of chutneys, applesauce and pesto. A friend and I trade chutneys, hers
made from her abundant figs, mine from the last of the green tomatoes in the
fall. Applesauce and its further processing into cake belonged to my childhood.
Little jars of homemade pesto nestle in my freezer for winter meals.
The kitchen
garden spread out to the Saturday farmer’s market and then came its big
brother, the supermarket, with its association with processed food. Not that processed
food got its start there, basic processed food is as old as humanity. One
thinks of flour, sugar and molasses, yogurt, cheese, dried fruits and legumes,
cider, wine and beer, dried and smoked meat and fish, coffee and tea, soy sauce
and tofu, sauerkraut and kimchi, all aimed at longevity not possible with fresh
food.
Why, then,
is the term “processed food” a bugaboo among those who want to eat healthily? What
is the difference between these foods made by ancient processes and those
lining the supermarket shelves? The most outstanding difference is that most of
these old-time foods are made long lasting by such age-old processes as
smoking, drying, the action of bacteria, fermenting, grinding; the foods
themselves are still quite recognizable as their original selves.
But wait,
what about soups and stews and casseroles, bread and baked desserts? Processed,
right? Yes, by cooking, the application of heat, and now true domestic food is
making its appearance. None of these common kitchen creations are long-lasting;
they are meant to be eaten quickly. “Eat foods that will eventually rot”, as
Pollan says!
Now let’s
leave the wild, the kitchen garden, the age-old processed
food and the home
kitchen and peruse the supermarket shelves. Here is rice, pasta, rolled oats – processed,
therefore baddies? No, Pollan is helpful here when he says avoid food with
ingredients you wouldn’t keep in your kitchen, “foodish” products like
processed cheese and foods pretending to be something they are not. I remember a breakfast at a friend’s that
would fall into that last category. There was margarine and an artificial cream
substitute that had never seen a cow, a vaguely orange-tasting chemical drink,
dry cereal with so many ingredients that the grain – what was it? – got lost
among the additives.
It is
additives that are the less-than-healthy culprits in true processed foods. Most
of them are unpronounceable, which is as good a way as any to identify them on
the ingredient list. Azodicarbonamide, for
instance, found in something like 500 bread products sold in the US, including
“healthy” breads, has been linked to health issues. Tartrazine, a yellow dye, has been recently removed from a popular
brand’s macaroni and cheese after buyers complained.
Then let’s consider propyl gallate, an estrogen
antagonist, widely used to keep fatty foods from oxidizing. As most prepared
food is either loaded with fat or with sugar, propyl gallate is to be found
everywhere on supermarket shelves, even in mayonnaise. Strangely enough, the mayonnaise
in my fridge, the product of a major Swiss company, contains no propyl gallate,
and it keeps just fine.
Pollan’s
food rules are simple; you don’t need to hunt through the 20 ingredients in a
product to see if a no-no chemical is present, for example. Just give a glance
at the number of ingredients, and do a quick scan to see how many of them are
actual foodstuffs. My purchased mayonnaise, for instance, contains sunflower
oil, vinegar, salt, mustard, egg yolk and a spice extract. All except the last
would be ingredients in homemade mayonnaise.
By
contrast, an instant pea soup with croutons has 21 ingredients, plus “natural
aromas”. Of the 21, 8 would not be homemade pea soup with croutons. One is an
antioxidation substance, the addition of which is probably responsible for the
fact that this soup has a shelf life of a year. Is this necessary? Only if one
is living in the wilds of Alaska or the back of beyond in Europe, it seems to
me. The rest of us shop frequently. So who is really benefitting from these
long-life foods on the shelves? The supermarket, maybe.
Writing about this has made me hungry for the
fruits and veggies –additive free - sold at the outdoor market in a nearby
town; it will start up again in April. Of the variety on offer, the best are
the seasonal produce, berries for instance, chanterelles, apricots. Or asparagus
in May, locally grown. The seasonal treats that are the very opposite of stuff
on the shelves that lasts approximately forever. I am counting the days.
